First, peel off the paper backing on the top of the acrylic deck.  Also, use the included sandpaper to rough up the bottom of the PalmIII connector a bit.  Don't sand it forever, just enough to scratch up the surface for better glue adhesion. 

Locate the two 1/4" holes near the edge of the deck.  Use these to line up the PalmIII connector as shown in the diagram.  Glue the connector in place on the top of the deck and wait for the glue to cure.  The alignment of this connector is important as it will determine where the Palm device sits on the deck when you are done. 

Now, with the wire through the hole in the deck, solder the wires to the DB-9 connector as shown in the diagram below.  Note that there are several wire coloring schemes for these cables, depending on the type of Palm used and the cable source.  Make sure you pick the one that fits the connector you are using.  Start cutting the wire shorter so that approximately 14" of wire from the bottom of the deck (where the wire comes through) to the end.  Next, strip back about 2" of the outer, gray insulation from the wire revealing 6 internal wires.  Cut all the shielding, paper, and string so that you have 6 clean colored wires.  Insert a small (1/2") piece of heatshrink tubing onto the three wires that you will be soldering (note the colors below).  Solder the three wires to the DB-9 shell on the appropriate pins.  Finally, slide up the heatshrink tubing to cover the connections and shrink the tubing with either a heatgun or by carefully using the soldering iron close to the tubing.